How Do You Propagate Monstera Tenuis?

How Do You Propagate Monstera Tenuis?

Monstera tenuis is propagated by cutting stems in water or soil. However, air layering or seeds can be used (not easy to find).

We recommend propagating in the spring or early summer. Why? To allow your plant to establish itself before the non-growing seasons.

We’ll go into soil or potting mix propagation in depth, and we’ll offer you a few pointers if you prefer water propagation.

It is not necessary to use rooting hormone. However, it will encourage quicker roots and lessen the likelihood of rotting.

Stem Cuttings propagation in soil

Fill the nursery pot halfway with potting mix and thoroughly water it until surplus water drains from the drainage holes. Remove anything that has accumulated in the pot saucer.

Choose a mature stem with at least two nodes and clip it just below the bottom node with your sterilized gardening shears. Remove the lowest leaves if it has more than two.

Apply your rooting hormone to the area of the plant that will go into the soil, i.e. the cut side, including the nodes you will grow into the potting mix.

Make a hole in the potting mix and plant your stem cutting, being sure to cover at least one node. Then, push the dirt against the cutting to keep it erect.

Wrap it in a plastic bag. It should not come into contact with the foliage. Also, make a tiny breathing space.

Place your cutting in a warm, indirect light environment.

When the dirt begins to dry, spray the plant and leave it open for a few hours to allow it to breathe.

You can transplant your cutting to its developing pot after the roots are around 2-3 inches long. The plant may take 4-6 weeks to root.

Stem Cuttings propagation in water

It’s similar to soil propagation, however you use water instead of dirt. Just make sure the leaves don’t touch the water and that the water is changed every 3-4 days. Fill it as well as the level falls.

You do not need to use a plastic bag to seal in humidity since water raises humidity as part evaporates.

How Do You Identify Monstera Tenuis?

Growing habits

Rhaphidophora tenuis is a small, leafy tropical liana endemic to Brunei and Sarawak.

The seedling stage develops towards the light (is non-skototropic), the juvenile shingles, but the adult is free, that is, it does not shingle.

Growth rate

Rhaphidophora tenuis, like the other plants in this genus, grows quickly. In a growth season, a fast-growing plant can grow by more than 24 inches or two feet.

In the wild, it can reach a height of 16 feet (5 meters). However, it will not grow much taller than 4-6 feet at home. You should also provide a climbing area if you want it to grow larger.

Leaves

Rhaphidophora tenuis has green leaves with membranous prophylls and cataphylls that dry and degrade, leaving fibers that slowly fall.

Like other shingling plants, the juvenile leaves are ascending, whole, falcate-lanceolate, and do not overlap.

As a result, it is easy to differentiate this plant from Rhaphidophora korthalsii, cryptantha, pertusa, or hayi, which have round shingling leaves that overlap somewhat.

Mature leaves, on the other hand, are big (5.5-17.7 inches long by 3.9-11.8 inches broad), entire, and pinnatifid to pinnatisect. They range in form from rectangular lance to wide oblong-elliptic and somewhat oblique.

These leaves resemble palm leaves, with pinnae that are thinner than sinuses (in-between gap). The pinnae are 0.4-0.4 inches (1-2 cm) broad and contain a tiny hole around the midrib at the base.

Stems

Rhaphidophora tenuis has medium green stems that age to become sub-woody.

Their internode length is around 4.3 inches (11cm), and they feature oblique leaf scar, sparse cataphyll, prophyll, and petiolar fiber.

They generate thick clasping roots on nodes and internodes to aid attach to the climbing surface, especially as they mature. They also have many and thick feeding roots.

Flowers and fruits

It features a dirty white inflorescence on a spadix and a thin, canoe-shaped dull yellow spathe with a robust beak. It has a terete to compressed peduncle (flower stem).

A prophyll and one or more cataphyll cover it as it develops. These two will eventually decay, leaving netted fibers behind.

In addition, the spathe collapses swiftly following anthesis, leaving a straight scar on the spadix base.

It, like other Rhaphidophora species, produces tiny, clustered fruits (infructescence). When the fruiting spadix is green, it will become orange.

How Do You Care For Monstera Tenuis?

Monstera tenuis is a vine that has a remarkable shift in leaf shape as it grows.

Its tiny, spherical juvenile leaves grow tightly pushed against the stem of its host tree. The leaves get larger as the vine rises vertically, but at some point they become quite large and dissected, and are kept away from the host tree stem by sturdy petioles.

Light requirements

The juvenile leaf morphology is most adapted for diffuse light capture, whereas the adult morphology is more suited for direct light exposure.

Light availability and a juvenile leaf size threshold have been proposed as factors influencing this abrupt morphological shift.

Humidity requirements

Average home humidity is OK. However, we recommend a minimum of 50%. Mist it, use a humidifier like or use a pebble tray.

Temperature requirements

Grows best at 70-80°F (21-27°C), but will tolerate temperatures ranging from 55-85 (12.8-29°). Make certain that there are no cold gusts, heat stress, or rapid temperature fluctuations. Also, avoid placing it near air conditioning or heat-emitting vents.

Watering requirements

Water your Rhaphidophora tenuis thoroughly when the top 1-2 inches of soil feel dry. Don’t stick to a watering schedule. Instead, examine the dirt.

Soil requirements

Reach soil or potting mix that is light, well-drained, and organic. Buy an aroid mix, or manufacture your own at home.

Fertilizer requirements

Only during the growing season, feed at least once a month with a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer. It is sufficient to use Bonide Liquid Plant Food (NPK 10-10-10) or Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food (Liquid).

Pruning requirements

Regularly remove dead, diseased, or damaged leaves using sanitized gardening shears. In the spring or early summer, you can cut a few branches to manage form or size.

Repotting requirements

Repot once a year or when the roots get rootbound. Use a pot that is 2-3 inches bigger in diameter and do it in the spring or early summer.

How Big Does A Monstera Tenuis Get?

Juveniles are found in the understory of this vigorous hemiepiphytic climber on big trees up to 30 m tall. A shingle plant with virtually spherical laminae as a juvenile.

Adult stem: smooth, 6-8 cm broad, 4-6 cm thick, internodes 8-12 cm long; leaf scars shallow, less than 2 cm wide at widest point, axillary bud in a depression that does not extend into a sulcus.

Petiole: 1/3 to 1/2 the length of the lamina, 30-60 cm long, vaginate to the base of the lamina, sheath wings persistent, up to 6 cm wide towards the base.

Does Monstera Tenuis Flowers?

1. tenuis has a branch that is extended by an auxiliary shoot and terminal blooming.

The inflorescence is moved to the side and looks axillary during the growth of the continuation branch.

As it climbs, the stalk produces blooms and shoots. The spadix is made up of perfect blooms with four stamens but no perianth, and the spathe is deciduous after anthesis.

Bees fertilize the blooms, which later develop into enormous infructescences around 30 cm long with 1,000 fruits apiece.

Monstereae are the only aroids with meridiosulcate foveolate pollen (Madison.

Birds are attracted to the juicy, golden fruits, which contribute in seed dispersal. Monstera tenuis blooms and fruits during the majority of the year.

What Is The Best Soil For Monstera Tenuis?

The best soil is a loose, light and porous potting mix with good drainage.

Buy an aroid mix, or manufacture your own at home. The soil should contain significant portion of organic material that can decay, provide nutrients to the plant, and allow for better aeration.

This plant is not able to survive in poorly drained soils, or in soils with hard clay particles. It is highly recommended that you choose an appropriate potting mix for this plant.

The majority of the plants sold in nurseries are potted in an orchid bark mix. That gritty, slow-shrinking material is perfect for epiphytes, but it does not provide good drainage.

The potting mix should be made up of equal parts organic matter (peat moss, vermiculite, peat humus) and coarse perlite or coarse sand to provide excellent drainage.

We recommend that you buy a ready-made potting mix instead of making it at home.

Why Monstera Tenuis Leaves Are Curling?

Curling leaves are usually an indication that the plant is very thirsty and needs to be watered so it is important to water your monstera tenuis thoroughly when the top 1-2 inches of soil feel dry.

It may also be a sign that the plant has too much water. Make sure that you never let the potting mix completely dry out. The roots will rot, and over time monstera tenuis leaves will curl downwards, exposing their undersides.

Too much light is also a problem. It will make the leaves curl upwards, and the plant may become weak and start dying.

Too much temperatures are also a cause of curling leaves. If the temperature drops too low in the winter, or goes too high during the summer, or if there are sudden temperature changes, the leaves might curl upwards.

Why Monstera Tenuis Leaves Is Turning Brown?

Brown leaf tips are usually caused by the plant being under watered. Always check that the soil is moist to a depth of at least 1 inch, and water thoroughly when the top 1-2 inches of soil feel dry.

It can also be a sign that the plant has too low humidity, especially in winter. To solve this issue, place the plant on a pebble tray filled with water and pebbles, or use a humidifier.

Browning leaves may also be caused by old age, especially if other signs of stress are visible on the plant.

Overwatering is the main cause of leaf drop and brown spots on the trunk. The roots can rot because of soggy soil, or because of low humidity if you have recently moved your monstera tenuis from outside to inside.

Over fertilization is also a possible cause of leaf drop and brown spots on the trunk, because of too much nutrients. Reduce the dosage by applying less than initially.

Poor nutrients is another cause of leaf drop and brown spots on the trunk.

Why Is My Monstera Tenuis Turning Yellow?

Yellowing leaves are usually an indication that the plant is not getting enough light. Move the monstera tenuis to a brighter location, or use grow-lights.

It can also be a sign that the plant has too much temperature, especially during summertime when it is too hot; or too cold during winter when it is freezing in your location.

Yellowing leaves may also be caused by old age, especially if other signs of stress are visible on the plant.

Overwatering is another cause of yellowing leaves. Make sure that the plant is not overwatered, and that the soil is evenly moist to a depth of 1-2 inches.

Over fertilization is also a possible cause of yellowing leaves because of too much nutrients. Reduce the dosage by applying less than initially.